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Other than the bezel and minor dial changes the EasyDiver Black Swan is the same watch as the 2010 new model as far as I can tell. Inside the watch is a Roger Dubuis in-house made caliber RD821 automatic movement. The watches are water resistant to 300 meters and come on nice rubber straps. Unfortunately the price is pretty high, even though there will only be 88 Black Swan watches made. Up from about ,000 for the 2010 Roger Dubuis EasyDiver models, the Black Swan will retail for around ,000  (13,900 Euros).

Mooren New Vintage Watches: By A Teenager

Mooren New Vintage Watches: By A Teenager

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Switzerland for the most part hates or merely tolerates Seiko. Why? Because in many ways Seiko plays the game much better than they do. Don't get me wrong, the Swiss and Germans do a lot of things Seiko doesn't do, but that doesn't mean Seiko couldn't do it if they really wanted to (which seems to be the predominant agreement in the industry - not everyone wants to be good at all the games). Seiko exists as a foreign invader... opting to copy, optimize, or innovate Swiss things where they see fit. Seiko also has released an incredible number of innovations compared to European watch making that has remained more or less the same for generations (aside from some materials and manufacturing changes). In addition, Seiko is mostly responsible for the quartz crisis (revolution) that wounded the Swiss ego and economy in a big way in the 1980s. Last, Seiko offers a large amount of products that meet the "in-house made" criteria for prices at fractions of what the Swiss charge. This damages the value proposition of luxury watches across the board. Seiko is a true innovator, disruptor, and force to be reckoned with. They are also super traditionalists and engineers at heart. Something the Grand Seiko collection is all about.

- the reverse system of the change (switch) wheels motion with the counterclockwise rotation and rotational axis displaced to the position “12 hours” (patented invention of K. Chaykin);

Most of the time spent on these watch movements involves finishing, decoration, and testing. It is surprising to me each time I hear how a movement is completely assembled and tested… and then disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled before delivery to the customer. There is a mode the Swiss have for making timepieces that is inherently time consuming and expensive. Some call it luxury, but the Swiss simply have their protocol and national pride.

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OK, and now for a special deal for readers. The first fifty one hundred people who order here will get a FREE small bottle of Veraet's watch cleaning spray. That even includes shipping. If you miss that, the trial portion of the spray goes for about + shipping. For those who miss out on that, Veraet is running a promotion until the end of October, 2010 on all their products! Deep discounts for the holiday season, so check out their products page here.

The Viceroy is part of their nicer collection of winders and comes in models that wind from one to eight watches. They are housed in padded black boxes that have a closing, clear acrylic front. According to Wolf Designs the boxes are put together by hand, and have a wooden frame. All it needs is a handle on the top and you could tote it around like a suitcase. The dimensions of the 6 Watch Winder units are 16.5”w x 6.25”d x 12.75”h.

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While I understand that high-end watches don't always make for a newsworthy stories, the industry can get more coverage when it is a bit more open. Dedicated watch media can have more "valuable" inside, while mainstream media can have more meat. Watch media needs to get more real before it can get more respect. The internet has made that possible for anyone to do. I highly recommend that the existing watch media publishing and journalism industry get together with the watch industry to discuss how watch media can be less marketing related, and more culture related.

There is a word that is thrown around a lot in the watch world that means the public takes a watch (or anything else for that matter) seriously. That word is legitimacy and I love to hear the French pronounce it. Cartier is what they call a legitimate brand. They have heaps of reputation, a solid history and plenty of important people who wear their products. Classic Cartier designs are also a great influence to their direct competitors. They really are the model of a solid luxury watch brand.

This is THE Vacheron Constantin watch that people are talking about this year. It is the Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time watch, and it tells the time all over the world (37 time zones).

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"Watch What-If" is a special column on that asks the playful question "what if an iconic watch you know and love was offered in a different style?" The idea embraces a good timepiece's core design and has fun by offering new colors and material concepts to stimulate your senses. These ideas may be provocative, artistic, or just plain silly. This is about fun, Photoshop, and the celebration of wrist watch design and experimentation. The original design we work off will always be at the bottom of the article. The designs are brought to life by Beau Hudspeth who does the artwork and concepting after he and I choose the models and styles to focus on. Ideas and comments are more than welcome. Enough response may even lead to a round two of design. You are also encouraged to suggest watches that make it into the Watch What-If section here on

Everything about this watch feels very precise. This includes the fit and finish as well as the attention to detail in the design. The dial for instance is incredibly well printed with everything being proportional and in the right place. This is very important as the dial is busy, but must retain a high degree of legibility. The hands and hour markers are coated in luminant for darkness viewing. Compared to other models the Shadow certainly has the sport style dial - which includes the design of the hands and hour markers. The black and white tones with a hint of red (and yellow) on the dial are conservative but not boring. Overall the dial is about functionality and quality.

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One side of the dial is mostly white and has lots of levels. The other side looks very Blancpain and has a textured dial that is more flat. The only this each dial shares is that it tells the time. Features easy to notice are the flying tourbillon, and the complex perpetual calendar functions. So what else does the Loiseau watch do? Here is a function list from them:

  1. Two instantly, secretly and fully reversible dials (World Premiere).
  2. Self-winding movement with annular-geared oscillating rotor (World Premiere).
  3. Self-winding striking mechanism with annular-geared oscillating rotor (World Premiere).
  4. 60 second Flying Tourbillon.
  5. Day/night indicator via a special reflector below the tourbillion cage.
  6. Mono pusher split second’s chronograph.
  7. Stop and return of the split seconds chronograph via a separate push-piece.
  8. 30-minute chronograph counter.
  9. Local time hours.
  10. Local time minutes.
  11. Seconds on the tourbillion carriage.
  12. 2ndtime zone hours.
  13. 2ndtime zone minutes.
  14. Equation of time.
  15. Striking mechanism power reserve indicator on the «Classical» dial.
  16. Striking mechanism power reserve indicator on the «Chronograph» dial.
  17. Silence.
  18. Automatic quarters striking mechanism (Petite Sonnerie au passage).
  19. Automatic hours and quarters striking mechanism (Grande Sonnerie au passage).
  20. Silence, Petite Sonnerie or Grande Sonnerie selection thru a single push-piece (World Premiere).
  21. Minute Repeater (hours, quarters and minutes).
  22. Perpetual calendar.
  23. Leap years.
  24. Day of the week.
  25. Month of the year.
  26. Date.
  27. Moonphase.
  28. Perpetual Calendar indications synchronously corrected through the crown (Patented).
  29. Day of the week individual correction thru specific integrated corrector.
  30. Month of the year individual correction thru specific integrated corrector.
  31. Date individual correction thru specific integrated corrector.
  32. Moon phase individual correction thru specific integrated corrector.

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The "Jura Stripes" decor on the dial is always nice looking, and for 2011 Louis Moinet seems to prefer these "dewdrop" tipped hands. They look cool, but as is the case with other Louis Moinet watches, there can contrast issues where the hands are tough to see. I do like the applied gold hour markers. Attached to the watch is a alligator with crocodile leather lining strap. Wow, both in the same strap! The Louis Moinet Astralis watch will be limited to just 12 pieces.

Richard Mille RM 032 Automatic Chronograph Dive Watch

Richard Mille RM 032 Automatic Chronograph Dive Watch

The mainstay of the Breitling quartz watch collection has always been their Aerospace watches. Those pieces are undeniably cool, but not everyone wants both analog hands and a digital display on their watch dial. So Breitling has always offered watches like this new Colt that are quartz movement based, but not digital.

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There is a great view of the movement through the two AR coated sapphire crystals. I like how well you can see the rotor spinning around, as well as the placement of the balance wheel. The layout of the movement is very clever. I would have liked however for there to be some hour indicators - perhaps engraved into the movement - to improve legibility.

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